“SOY SAUCE! SOY SAUCE! She covered my Paris gown with soy sauce!” ~Judith Tremaine, after Millie tries to clean the mascara running onto her Paris dress in the 1967 movie Thoroughly Modern Millie, written by Richard Morris, directed by George Roy Hill.
In the U.S., the term “soy sauce” is broadly applied to a family of products that are primarily made from soy beans and wheat or other grain. Some are naturally fermented (brewed with cultures or yeast) and others use enzymes or chemicals to obtain similar results. Understanding what is on the label can help you choose the best soy sauce for your purposes – and compare ingredient lists so you know exactly what you are getting.
Most of us buy our soy sauce from the top shelf in the chain grocery store’s Asian food aisle. Choices are limited to just a few, and it is those that I will focus on. For a treat sometime, however, visit a specialty Asian grocery store and have a chat with the proprietors about the differences in the brands they carry. It can be enlightening.
Just as barbecue sauce aficionados or curry fans can identify regional influences by the flavors and how they’re made, soy sauces are also regionally defined by their variations in processing and ingredients. Bottles that include the word “shoyu” anywhere on the label will be Japanese-style. If the only descriptor used is “soy sauce,” then it may be either Japanese- or Chinese-style. Kikkoman and San-J are Japanese-style; La Choy is Chinese-style.
Connoisseurs define five flavors to look for when evaluating soy sauce: umami (special flavor of the soy bean), salty, sweet, sour, and bitter. Color is also an important aspect of choosing a soy sauce because it will be visible on the food it is used with and can indicate the intensity of flavor.
NOTE: If alcohol is an issue for you, be aware that some brands contain (and list) small amounts of alcohol added as a natural preservative.
For most uses, I find that the San-J Organic Wheat-Free Tamari-Shoyu is my preferred choice, but I keep a low-sodium version on hand for times when I want a lighter soy sauce flavor without as much saltiness (such as in salad dressings). Sadly, the organic varieties are often relegated to the health food section of the store instead of being offered with the more common brands, so you might have to search a little to find them.
With a spot close to the front in my refrigerator, soy sauce is the go-to seasoning that I often use instead of salt. It seems to offer a little more bang for the investment that I guess comes from being in a liquid, which carries the salty flavor better than just sprinkling salt on the food. We use it in soups, stir-fries, and as an ingredient in many other sauces.
When we have lettuce wraps, pot-stickers, or rice balls, I like to accompany them with a simple dipping sauce such as this one. Homemade is significantly better than any I’ve found in the grocery store.
#1 Dipping Sauce
Serves 4
Prep time: 3 minutes
¼ cup tamari or other soy sauce
¼ cup rice vinegar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
¼ teaspoon dried ginger OR 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
¼ teaspoon agave nectar or other sweetener (optional)
1 teaspoon chopped chives to garnish
Measure all ingredients except chives into a microwave-safe measuring cup in the order given. Stir gently, then warm on low for 20 seconds to blend flavors. Pour into small, individual serving bowls (2 tablespoons of sauce in each) and sprinkle with chives to garnish.





