Archive for May, 2010

Hitting the Sauce

“SOY SAUCE! SOY SAUCE! She covered my Paris gown with soy sauce!” ~Judith Tremaine, after Millie tries to clean the mascara running onto her Paris dress in the 1967 movie Thoroughly Modern Millie, written by Richard Morris, directed by George Roy Hill.

In the U.S., the term “soy sauce” is broadly applied to a family of products that are primarily made from soy beans and wheat or other grain. Some are naturally fermented (brewed with cultures or yeast) and others use enzymes or chemicals to obtain similar results. Understanding what is on the label can help you choose the best soy sauce for your purposes – and compare ingredient lists so you know exactly what you are getting.

Most of us buy our soy sauce from the top shelf in the chain grocery store’s Asian food aisle. Choices are limited to just a few, and it is those that I will focus on. For a treat sometime, however, visit a specialty Asian grocery store and have a chat with the proprietors about the differences in the brands they carry. It can be enlightening.

Just as barbecue sauce aficionados or curry fans can identify regional influences by the flavors and how they’re made, soy sauces are also regionally defined by their variations in processing and ingredients. Bottles that include the word “shoyu” anywhere on the label will be Japanese-style. If the only descriptor used is “soy sauce,” then it may be either Japanese- or Chinese-style. Kikkoman and San-J are Japanese-style; La Choy is Chinese-style.

Tamari Shoyu on left, Low-sodium soy sauce on right

Connoisseurs define five flavors to look for when evaluating soy sauce: umami (special flavor of the soy bean), salty, sweet, sour, and bitter. Color is also an important aspect of choosing a soy sauce because it will be visible on the food it is used with and can indicate the intensity of flavor.

NOTE: If alcohol is an issue for you, be aware that some brands contain (and list) small amounts of alcohol added as a natural preservative.

For most uses, I find that the San-J Organic Wheat-Free Tamari-Shoyu is my preferred choice, but I keep a low-sodium version on hand for times when I want a lighter soy sauce flavor without as much saltiness (such as in salad dressings). Sadly, the organic varieties are often relegated to the health food section of the store instead of being offered with the more common brands, so you might have to search a little to find them.

With a spot close to the front in my refrigerator, soy sauce is the go-to seasoning that I often use instead of salt. It seems to offer a little more bang for the investment that I guess comes from being in a liquid, which carries the salty flavor better than just sprinkling salt on the food. We use it in soups, stir-fries, and as an ingredient in many other sauces.

When we have lettuce wraps, pot-stickers, or rice balls, I like to accompany them with a simple dipping sauce such as this one. Homemade is significantly better than any I’ve found in the grocery store.

#1 Dipping Sauce

Serves 4
Prep time: 3 minutes

¼ cup tamari or other soy sauce
¼ cup rice vinegar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
¼ teaspoon dried ginger OR 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
¼ teaspoon agave nectar or other sweetener (optional)
1 teaspoon chopped chives to garnish

Measure all ingredients except chives into a microwave-safe measuring cup in the order given. Stir gently, then warm on low for 20 seconds to blend flavors. Pour into small, individual serving bowls (2 tablespoons of sauce in each) and sprinkle with chives to garnish.

Using Thyme Wisely

“I know a bank where the wild thyme blows,
Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine.”

~ William Shakespeare, describing where the fairy queen, Titania, sleeps in A Midsummer Night’s Dream

In medieval times, women would often give knights and warriors gifts that included thyme leaves, believing it would bring courage to the bearer. A mixture of thyme, rosemary, parsley, and sage has been commonly used as a love potion. Thyme also has medicinal uses when made into a tea that soothes coughs and sore throats. It is sometimes used as ground cover in place of a lawn, it grows all over the world, and there are 100’s of varieties. Thyme also has a scent that is easy to adore.

What I like most about herbs, and thyme in particular, is that they have a way of making my kitchen skills appear to be amazing with so very little effort. Sunday afternoon, as I was thinking about which use of thyme to include in today’s blog, I decided to bring a handful of fresh herbs over to our new neighbors.

As we walked through their yard, Sophia was talking about ways she could use all the different herbs I had brought to her. Then she reminded me of one of my favorites, roasted tomatoes. Here, I share my version in an impressive dish that takes mere minutes to throw together:

Roasted Tomatoes with Thyme

Serves 2 as a side dish, 1 as a main course
Time: 12 minutes

1 tomato, cut horizontally in half
½ teaspoon fresh thyme OR ¼ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Coarsely ground salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon olive oil

Preheat oven to 425°.

Place the tomato pieces flesh-side up on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with the thyme, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper, and finally, the olive oil. Roast in the middle of the oven for 10 minutes. Serve hot with rice or pasta as a side dish, or just with warm, crusty bread for a simple lunch.

So, given enough thyme, I can make a beautiful lunch in minutes, and even throw in a few puns. What more could we ask from a plant that sits patiently beside the back door?

Popeye’s Meatless Monday

Poopdeck Pappy: Eat that spinach. Eat that spinach, you brat.
Popeye: I don’t want to eat that spinach. I don’t want to eat that spinach. Waaaaah. Waaaaah.
Poopdeck Pappy: You disobedient brat. You was disobedient when you was two, and you’re still disobedient now. You wouldn’t eat your spinach. Spinach what kept our family strong for thousands of years. And what does me only oxspring do wid it?
Popeye, Poopdeck Pappy: He spits it up!
~ Popeye, from E. C. Segar’s Thimble Theatre aka Popeye comic strip, 1980.

Popeye probably never tried Swiss chard, but if he had, I’d bet he would have liked it. With stems that come in rainbow colors, Swiss chard’s milder flavor and chewier texture is much more kid-friendly than cooked spinach.

The reason I’m telling you about the virtues of these greens now is because if you are thinking of planting a garden, it isn’t too late to throw in a row of Swiss chard. This beautiful, leafy vegetable is more heat tolerant than spinach, so has a longer growing season that extends well into summer. It is also a good investment because you can harvest the larger leaves while the smaller leaves continue to grow. When a winter is mild, Swiss chard sometimes volunteers to come up for a second season, emerging just as soon as the snow has gone.

Lebanese restaurants often serve a very tasty lentil soup with Swiss chard stirred in. A little on the thick side, it goes well over a brown rice and orzo pilaf to make a one-bowl meal or with a flat bread used to scoop up the mixture. If you like it thin, then just add an extra cup of broth. The lemon is what sets this recipe apart from other lentil soups, so use freshly squeezed juice if you can.

Time: 1 hour
Serves: 2 without rice, 4 with rice

Lebanese Lentils with Swiss Chard

1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic
1 cup lentils
5 cups vegetable broth
1 bunch Swiss chard, stems reserved for another use
¼ cup lemon juice
½ cup cilantro, chopped (optional, for garnish)

Saute the onion in olive oil until some of it has caramelized. Stir in the garlic, lentils, and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, then cover and allow to cook for 40 minutes. If a lot of steam escapes from the pot, add additional broth or water as needed.

(Or, caramelize the onions in the olive oil, then place into an electric crock cooker along with the garlic, lentils, broth, and Swiss chard for 8 hours on low.)

Meanwhile, wash the chard and shred the leaves. You can set the stems aside to use in another dish; they are often used to replace the asparagus called for in recipes, either whole or chopped. The stems take longer to cook than the leaves, so don’t be tempted to throw them all in together unless you add them at the beginning.

Test the lentils to be sure they are soft and continue cooking if necessary. When they have softened, stir in the shredded chard, cover the pot and simmer for 10 more minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice just before serving. Top bowls with chopped fresh cilantro, if desired.

Lebanese food is often vegetarian, making it an excellent choice if you are participating in the Meatless Mondays campaign that encourages people to reduce their meat consumption to improve their health and the health of the planet. You can read about Meatless Mondays by clicking on the link in the right sidebar.

Ebony and Ivory

“Next to jazz music, there is nothing that lifts the spirit and strengthens the soul more than a good bowl of chili.”
~Harry James, American musician and big bandleader (1916-1983)

Beans, beans, the musical fruit… Nutritious, heart healthy, and filling, beans are a versatile staple in my cupboard. Dried beans are easy to store, taking much less room than the canned varieties, and about ¼ the cost. While being easy to prepare, however, they do require advance planning.

Most beans need soaking before cooking. Following directions on the package for how much water to use and time required, it is generally most convenient for me to put them in the pot to soak right after the evening dishes are done. That way, they’re ready to put into the electric crockery cooker first thing the next morning and ready by supper time.

A 15-ounce can contains 1 ½ cups of rinsed, drained, cooked beans. A 1-pound bag of dried beans yields 5-6 cups of rinsed, drained, cooked beans. That means you need to cook a little more than ½ cup of dried beans to ensure an amount to equal the cooked beans from one can.

For convenience, most recipes calling for beans (my own included) are written in terms of using a 15-ounce can. Just dump the beans into a colander, run water over them to rinse off the starchy liquid, and they’re ready to go.

Today, the calendar says it is spring, but the weather is trying to tell us otherwise. This sort of day is just begging for a bowl of chili. While chili is most often made with kidney beans, there is no reason to cling to that notion. Like jazz, you’ve got to play with what you’ve got. The black beans and chickpeas in this recipe gives us the ebony and ivory colors that remind us of piano keys.

Ebony and Ivory Chili

Serves 4
Time: 35 minutes

1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained
1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon cumin
¼ teaspoon ground chipotle chili pepper
2 tablespoons lime juice

Optional: Shredded, cooked pork, guacamole, sour cream, and/or cilantro to garnish

Soften onion, celery, and garlic in olive oil in a medium-size pot with a lid. Stir in remaining ingredients EXCEPT the lime juice. Bring to a simmer, cover, and allow to cook for 30 minutes on low, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in the lime juice. For meat eaters, you can float a rounded spoonful of shredded, cooked pork in the center of each bowl. For others, offer a dollop of guacamole or sour cream. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro, if desired.

Chili can be served straight up in a bowl, spooned over a baked potato, accompanied by corn bread, or even to top rice. We like ours with some big band sounds on the side.

In a Curry

“This curry was like a performance of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony that I’d once heard…..especially the last movement, with everything screaming and banging ‘Joy.’ It stunned, it made one fear great art.” ~ Anthony Burgess, English author and composer (1917 – 1993)

Of all the seasonings in my cupboard, curry seems to be the one I am most cautious about serving to others. It seems that some people love it, as I do, while others are terrified of it. There are few who stand on the middle ground.

While we easily associate curry with food from South Asia (India, in particular), it comes as a surprise to some that the curry powder we get from a jar is actually a blend of spices, none of which come from the curry plant.

Curry powder, as we purchase it in ready-made blends, gets its customary yellow color from turmeric, a plant closely related to ginger. The mixtures also contain ground seeds from fenugreek, cumin, and coriander, among others. Most contain some red pepper, but not all blends are hot. Commercially prepared curry powders are usually very mild, leaving the amount of “heat” up to the cook. Adding a sweet fruit such as apple or raisins creates an intriguing contrast of flavors.

If you’ve never made a curry dish at home, you might be surprised to learn that curries are usually very quick to prepare, making them perfect for weeknights. They can also be “one pot” meals, which is a delightful bonus when it comes to cleaning up.

Curries vary by whatever is in the cupboard or refrigerator. Sometimes we make ours with coconut milk, and other times with vegetable broth as the base. We like our curries to top rice, but now and then we choose flatbread to sop up the spicy sauce. As an added bonus, curries can be made nutritious enough to be a complete meal in themselves, or used as a side dish for those who eat meat.

Here is a simple curry to get your creative juices going. Feel free to add whatever inspires you. We ate ours with a tender whole wheat flatbread and still had enough daylight left to jump on the bike for an after-dinner ride.

Serves 2
Time: 20 minutes

Sweet Potato Cauliflower Curry

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 cup vegetable broth
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cubed
1 (12-ounce) bag frozen cauliflower
1 cup frozen peas
1/4 cup raisins (optional)
Cayenne pepper, to taste

Sauté onion in oil in a pot over medium heat. When the onion is soft but not yet browned, stir in the broth, potato, cauliflower, and peas. Bring mixture to a boil, cover pot and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until potato pieces are tender, 10-15 minutes. Stir in raisins and cayenne pepper, if using. Serve hot.

Mondays don’t need to be difficult!